Fatima Begum

Fatima Begum's workshop in the old city of Hyderabad smells of beeswax and metal. She specializes in jadau — a technique where uncut diamonds and emeralds are set into gold foil without any adhesive. The craft came to Hyderabad from Rajasthan centuries ago and found its most devoted practitioners here. Each piece takes weeks: first the gold frame is shaped, then stones are carefully placed one by one, and finally the back is sealed with lac. "Every stone has a personality," Fatima explains. "You must find where it wants to sit." Her jewelry has adorned brides across South India for over two decades.